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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.